by Andrew Chalk
The preamble to part one read…
“More people are coming round to the idea that Texas can make good wine as they sample more of it. But the ultimate test of gravitas in, at least red wines, is how they age. How does Texas do in that regard?
To find out, I am doing a series of tastings of Texas wines, all 10+ years old, and assessing how they are doing. I am choosing them based on how their peers in other parts of the world do at the end of their first decade.”
And later added
“Since this vintage is no longer available in the retail market I have helpfully indicated the price as ‘infinity’ in the title, above. ”
THE WINE
Viviano is Llano Estacado’s flagship red blend. In this case an unspecified combination of cabernet sauvignon and sangiovese. Think of it as a Super Tuscan - from Lubbock.
TASTING NOTES
What surprised me most about this sample was how fresh it was! The fruit character was vibrant. Part cherry, part blackberry. There are nuances of pencil lead, dried herbs (oregano, thyme) and secondary notes of oak. All of this is layered on a structure of pronounced tannins with a chewy, but not harsh, character. Altogether a layered and complex wine.
The original winemaker notes recommend pairing with steak. Ten years later, and after the retirement of that winemaker, Greg Bruni, the advice is still sound.
Sample.
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