Two Braces of Enticing Oregon Chardonnays

by Andrew Chalk

Oregon's pinot noir is already known worldwide. However, the state has more than that going on. Chardonnay has been grown in the state for a long time but has not received the same acclaim. One respected Oregon winemaker told me two decades ago that early chardonnay plantings had problems because they were the wrong clone. The Wente clone produced fantastic results in California, but did not transfer well to the Oregon terroir. French clones (e.g. the Dijon clone) have proven much more successful.

Today, Oregon winegrowers bring mature vineyards and years of experience to chardonnay and news of the results is getting out. Recently, I tasted four examples and came away impressed, not just with the quality of the wine but the spirit of independence of the winemakers. The results were a style of wine that is not a Xerox of the heavily oaked, heavily extracted, ripe New World style that is so widespread. I like that style, but what I like even more is choice, and these growers offer part of that fabric.

NAME:	Chehalem 2021 Chardonnay Reserve, Estate Grown, Dundee Hills, Oregon
APPEARANCE
Clarity	clear
Intensity	medium
Color	lemon-green
Other observations
NOSE
Condition	clean
Intensity	medium
Aroma characteristics	mayer lemon, lime, pineapple, golden apples, oregano
PALATE
Sweetness	dry
Acidity	medium plus
Tannin
Alcohol	medium
Body	medium
Flavour intensity	medium plus
Flavour characteristics	Fruit in nose confirmed. Chewy body due to impressive phenolic backbone. Graham crackers. Malo may not be 100% Oak is muted
Other observations
Finish	Finish of citrus fruit lingers.
CONCLUSION
Quality assessment	Very good quality. Especially notable is the winemaker's readiness to break with conventiion and restrain the use of oak and, I believe, malolactic fermentation, for a wine that is very good but in a singular way, without leaving any doubt that it is chardonnay.
Bottle ageing	Suitable

NAME:	Duck Pond 2022 Chardonnay Coles Valley Vineyard, Umqua Valley, Oregon
APPEARANCE
Clarity	clear
Intensity	medium
Color	lemon-green
Other observations
NOSE
Condition	clean
Intensity	medium minus
Aroma characteristics	Lime, green apples, peach stones, hints of oak, brioche;
PALATE
Sweetness	dry
Acidity	medium plus
Tannin
Alcohol	medium
Body	medium plus
Flavour intensity	medium plus
Flavour characteristics	Fruit in nose confirmed. Phenolic background. Fruit not as ripe as Chahalem.
Other observations
Finish	Medium and fruit-led;
CONCLUSION
Quality assessment	Very good. All elements in balance. Short of oustanding due to the intensity of the elements, especially fruit.
Bottle ageing	Suitable

NAME:	Stoller Family Statement 2021 Chardonnay Reserve, Estate Grown, Dundee Hills, Oregon
APPEARANCE
Clarity	clear
Intensity	medium
Color	lemon-green
Other observations
NOSE
Condition	clean
Intensity	medium
Aroma characteristics	Lime, peach stone fruit, green apples. Somewhat closed.
PALATE
Sweetness	dry
Acidity	medium plus
Tannin
Alcohol	medium
Body	medium plus
Flavour intensity	medium
Flavour characteristics	Deeply chewy texture, impressive minerality. Would like more power to the components;
Other observations
Finish	short
CONCLUSION
Quality assessment	Good. To be higher the fruit needs more power. The balance is this wine's most compelling feature.
Bottle ageing	Not suitable

NAME:	Van Duzer 2021 Chardonnay, Estate, Van Duzer Corridor, Oregon
APPEARANCE
Clarity	clear
Intensity	medium
Color	lemon-green
Other observations
NOSE
Condition	clean
Intensity	medium plus
Aroma characteristics	Lemon, yeast, green apple, oregano. Mango.
PALATE
Sweetness	dry
Acidity	medium plus
Tannin
Alcohol	medium
Body	medium
Flavour intensity	medium plus
Flavour characteristics	Yeast character more pronounced than in the other wines here. Fruit is ripe and mango more prevalent on the palate than in the nose.
Other observations
Finish	short
CONCLUSION
Quality assessmediument	good. Presents a more mature demeanor than the other wines with secondary flavors. Oak very reserved.
Bottle ageing	Suitable.

Sample.