by Andrew Chalk
I recently had the pleasure of catching up with Veronique Bonnie on a flying visit through Dallas as she dashed between her family’s properties in France and Argentina. Best known for the flagship Château Malartic-Lagravière in the Bordeaux appellation of Pessac-Léognan, one of only six Châteaux in the appellation classified in both red and white wines, the family's interests now stretch to other properties as well.
In Pessac-Léognan, Château Gazin-Rocquencourt produces red wine from cabernet sauvignon (55%) and merlot (45%) and white wine from 100% sauvignon blanc.
Seven thousand miles and twenty hours by plane away, DiamAndes produces prodigious malbec, malbec-cabernet sauvignon blends, and chardonnay from a 320 acre vineyard at 3600 feet above sea level.
Veronique has become a leader in frequent-flier miles collected with her multiple trips between the two continents each year.
We started with the DiamAndes de Uco 2020 Malbec, Mendoza. A powerful intensely fruity wine of blueberries and blackberries that is smoothly structured to be drinkable now or aged. Ideal paired with one of those Francis Mallmann-type asados cooked on a parilla.
Likewise, the DiamAndes de Uco 2019 Grand Reserve Malbec-Cabernet Sauvignon, Mendoza. This is particularly one to keep given the powerful tannic backbone of the cabernet sauvignon.
Next, a brace of flagship reds from the two Pessac-Léognan properties. The 2015 Château Gazin-Rocquencourt and the 2016 Château Malartic-Lagravière. Both medium-aged, so starting to show some tertiary notes in the nose. Nonetheless, both with deep layers of cassis fruit on the palate and cedar wood notes.
Finally, in Veronique’s slightly unusual tasting order, two whites with DiamAndes 2022 Chardonnay ‘Perlita’ from Valle de Uco, Mendoza and Château Gazin Rocquencourt 2018 Pessac-Léognan. Naturally different in character. The chardonnay (previously reviewed here) rich and weighty on the palate with fruit flavors. The sauvignon blanc crisp, bringing the palate to immediate attention like a gustatory drill sergeant. I loved it with my clam chowder, and the chardonnay with my crab remoulade. But that is a personal reflection.
Overall, La Famille Bonnie, as they name their corporate entity, is doing a fine job sustaining and improving wine on both the European and South American continents.
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