by Andrew Chalk
This wine has a measured alcohol level of 0.47% ABV (alcohol by volume). By comparison, typical California Central Coast pinot noir has an ABV around 14%. So, the big difference is that this wine has less than 5% of the alcohol of a regular wine, making it legally “non-alcoholic”. Oceano opts for the neutral term “alcohol removed wine”.
I anticipate a lot of interest in this wine. I certainly was excited to sample it. Oceano Wines was one of the most impressive pinot noir producers I tasted on a media tour of San Luis Obispo (SLO) in 2020. Their wines were the most herbal in their aromas and had ample ripe tannins in the mouth. Owner Rachel Martin is a hyperactive advocate of the San Luis Obispo Coast and its Spanish Springs Vineyard, the vineyard that I counted (somewhat informally) on more SLO labels than any other.
I am a fan of SLO and came to its defense when the Wine Spectator ignored it in their 2019 report California Pinot Noir – The Next Great Red. I pointed out “Why ignore the SLO Coast AVAs? It would be understandable if they made inferior wine, so I looked at the Wine Spectator’s own tasting notes of over 600 California pinot noirs in the aforementioned issue of the magazine. The average score for wines in either the Edna Valley AVA or the Arroyo Grande Valley AVA was 89.8 [Ed: The SLO Coast]. Other Central Coast AVA averages were Monterey (87.6), Santa Lucia Highlands (89.8), Santa Maria Valley (89.6) and Santa Rita Hills (89.8). In other words, the average quality in the SLO Coast AVAs was comparable to other Central Coast AVAs that were seen as promising areas for pinot noir.”
Followers of the search for dealcoholized versions of alcoholic beverages will be aware that the craft brewers have crossed the shark. Non-alcoholic beers from producers like Athletic Brewing Company are indistinguishable from their regular counterparts and that brewery’s success has put it on the front page of the Wall Street Journal. Spirit makers likewise (although it generates little interest). Wine however is the problem child. The worst wine that I ever reviewed was a non-alcoholic wine. Established examples reach the exalted heights of adjectives like “drinkable”. They don’t win competitions against regular wines yet.
That, I have to tell Oceano fans, is where I put this wine. Tasting notes follow but, in layman’s terms, it smelled and tasted of pinot noir, but denuded pinot noir. Oceano’s regular wines make you want to go back for more, and more. After a taste to create the note, the cork is going back in this bottle.
Try it yourself, ideally next to its alcoholic counterpart, and form your own opinions. If you are off alcohol for medical or other reasons then this may be just what you are looking for. But it is not for me
TASTING NOTES
NAME: | Oceano 2023 Pinot Noir Spanish Springs Vineyard San Luis Obispo Coast, CA ($55) |
COMMENTS | |
APPEARANCE | |
Clarity | clear |
Intensity | medium |
Color | ruby |
NOSE | |
Condition | clean |
Intensity | medium |
Aroma Characteristics | Ripe raspberry. forest floor, rose petals. |
PALATE | |
Sweetness | dry |
Acidity | medium |
Tannin | low. soft |
Alcohol | 0% |
Body | medium |
Flavor intensity | medium |
Flavor characterstics | Redcurrant, raspberry, red cherry, dry tart fruit. |
Other observations | Simple on the palate. Little oak influence. |
Finish | Short |
Quality Assessment | Acceptable. |
Bottle aging | Not suitable |
Sample.
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